Doin' The Wave

By far, the most popular and recognizable area within the Vermillion Cliffs National Monument and its surrounding areas is a place simply known as "The Wave." The first time you see photos of this area, it's immediately obvious why people travel from across the world to visit the incredible geologic formations of red, white, and yellow swirling slickrock. 

However, visiting The Wave is not done easily. Due to its popularity, and the fragile nature of the sandstone (which visitors hike directly upon) the Bureau of Land Management requires visitors to obtain permits in advance. 20 permits are issued for each day - 10 of these are issued online several weeks in advance, and the other 10 are set aside as "walk-in" permits issued the day before your desired trip. All of the permits are issued based on a lottery system, rather than "first come, first serve," so obtaining a permit is simply the luck of the draw. For more information, refer to the BLM's website HERE.

To give you an idea of the likelihood of obtaining a Wave permit, especially if your dates aren't flexible: it took me 4 or 5 attempts to obtain a walk-in permit before I finally succeeded, and these attempts were all during the "slow" season. During the summer months, your odds decrease significantly. Luckily for me, I lived in Kanab (where they do the walk-in lottery) so I didn't have a high sense of urgency to obtain a permit during a specific day.

For those who are unable to obtain a Wave permits: DO NOT BE DISCOURAGED! The Wave is just one of many options you have to explore in the area. Don't let its popularity fool you, there is other stuff that is just as good, if not better than The Wave. Ask a ranger in the Kanab BLM visitor center and they'll be more than happy to direct you to a viable alternative to The Wave.

One more important point I'd like to make before describing my hike to The Wave - for those lucky enough to obtain a permit: This is not your "average" 5.5 mile hike. Most of the hike is off trail, with little to no shade. The BLM will hand out a trail guide with pictures of landmarks to help guide you along the way. Make sure you bring this on your hike. Without it, even the most advanced hikers could lose their way, especially if it's their first time to The Wave. Bring plenty of water, especially in the summer - more than you think you'll need. Most importantly, don't do anything that you feel is beyond your comfort/ability level. Normally, I'm not one to try and scare people away, but last July (2013) alone, 3 hikers died while attempting The Wave, and all cases were completely avoidable had they been better prepared, and had a better idea of their abilities.

Thanks for listening to my shpeel. Now, on to the fun stuff!

I was pretty excited when I finally scored a Wave permit, especially after one of my failed attempts when the odds were considerably in my favor (14 people for 10 permits) and Stephany and I were 2 of the 4 left out. Ouch.

The Wave shares a trailhead with Wire Pass up the House Rock Valley Road, but the trail splits out of the wash, where there is an obvious sign. Make sure you have a permit!

For a while, there is an obvious trail, but soon, you begin hiking across slickrock with no trail or rock cairns to guide you. I can't over-empasize how helpful the BLM's handout is in helping you find your way. 

We chose a sunny but chilly December day (in 2011) to complete the hike. Overall, the hiking weather was perfect, and it's nice not having to worry about the blistering summer heat. If at all possible, I highly recommend hiking The Wave during the "slow season."

Despite all of my warnings about preparing to hike The Wave, if you're an advanced hiker, chances are you won't find the hike to be overly difficult. It's truly amongst the most fascinating marvels that nature has to offer. 

During my hike, I didn't take many photos along the way, but once I arrived at The Wave, I had a tough time putting my camera down. 

Warning: tons of pics to follow!

(Yes, dogs are allowed at The Wave!)

Doing The Wave Dance!

(Actually, it's my dance for all things awesome.)

We scrambled up to a high point to catch some views of the surrounding area.

Obviously, a trip to The Wave is about way more than The Wave itself.

Back to the streaky stuff!

Perhaps my personal favorite:

Wave Cave (or cavern, or whatever...)

Making our way back:

Sorry if that photo overload was a bit excessive, but I think it was necessary!

Continuing back to the trailhead left us with a feeling of complete satisfaction. One day I hope to return to The Wave but if I don't, it's okay, because I know I'll never forget it. 

If you are fortunate enough to get a Wave permit, I am sure you will be thoroughly satisfied with your experience, as I was. If you are unable to obtain one: I can almost guarantee that you will also be thoroughly satisfied by one of the countless other options the area has to offer.

Wire Pass and Buckskin Gulch

Within the Vermillion Cliffs Wilderness area lies Paria Canyon and its tributaries. One of its main tributaries is Buckskin Gulch, which is arguably the longest slot canyon in the world at 21 miles, and is certainly one of the most impressive.

There are several different ways to approach Buckskin Gulch, and can be done as a backpacking trip with a one-way shuttle. If interested in doing Buckskin Gulch as a backpacking trip, you can find more information HERE.

As a day hike, the most popular route starts at the Wire Pass trailhead, where there is an obvious parking area 8 miles up the House Rock Valley Road, south of highway 89 (between Kanab, Utah and Page, Arizona.) This dirt road is usually in decent shape, but may be impassable when wet.

At first, the hike starts up a wash and is pretty uneventful, but know that it gets much, much better!

Soon, you enter Wire Pass, a tributary of Buckskin Gulch and an impressive slot in its own right. I have taken two trips into Buckskin Gulch via Wire Pass. Here are the highlights.

Stephany, who had just moved to Kanab from Connecticut a couple of months prior:

(Apparently, they don't have slot canyons like this back east.)

After about 1.7 miles, Wire Pass joins Buckskin Gulch, where the canyon opens up in spectacular fashion, with towering, streaked rock walls all around. 

Here's a photo at the confluence, looking back towards Wire Pass:

For scale:

Once reaching Buckskin Gulch you can either take a left and head back towards the House Rock Valley, or a right, and wander for miles. Buckskin Gulch's canyon walls are much higher than Wire Pass, but not as narrow in most sections. I definitely recommend hiking to Buckskin via Wire Pass rather than starting on Buckskin from the beginning. Wire Pass offers a slightly different, more "intimate" slot canyon experience.

Here's a look into Buckskin Gulch (right of the confluence from Wire Pass):

Working our way back through Wire Pass, which sometimes opens up with views of colorful slickrock:

On a different trip, I took my friend Shenon on the same hike while he visited me in Kanab. This time, I elected to go left at the confluence. We discovered some interesting mud slabs that we entertained ourselves with. 

Soon, we reached an area where the canyon opened up, and we were able to hike up the slickrock and explore the area a bit more. 

In some areas, the rock formations resemble the nearby Wave.

After a while, we decided to sit back, relax, and soak in the views.

On our way back through Buckskin Gulch, we spotted a Gopher Snake. Surprising, considering it was a chilly November day. 

Wire Pass and Buckskin Gulch are spectacular, easily accessible slot canyons that offer the versatility of short day hikes or longer, overnight adventures. Nearby, there are countless other attractions that are also worth exploring. As I recollect these trips, it makes me miss slot canyon and slickrock country. Trust me, if you get the chance, you don't want to miss out on exploring these amazing places!

Kanab Utah Introduction

Kanab, Utah is located in the extreme southern part of the state, only a few miles from the Arizona border, and about 1.5 hours (driving time) east of St. George. From December, 2010 until April, 2013, I called Kanab home (with the exception being the summer of 2011 when I was in Alaska.)

Kanab is about as much of an "epicenter" as it gets for outdoor recreation. Zion National Park, Bryce Canyon National Park, Dixie National Forest, Cedar Breaks National Monument, Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument, Vermillion Cliffs National Monument, Glen Canyon National Recreation Area, Kaibab National Forest, and the north rim of Grand Canyon are all within a hop, skip, and a jump of Kanab. Some of these areas offer year-round and (mostly) snow-free recreation, which only adds to Kanab's appeal.

I was lucky enough to explore many of the areas listed above during my time in Kanab. Some of these were well-known and frequently visited, but others were remote and isolated (requiring high-clearance 4-wheel drive vehicles to access.) It's always best to err on the side of caution when headed out into remote areas, but the well-prepared shouldn't be dissuaded from exploring some of the most spectacular and unique places in the world. I always find "harder to reach" places that much more rewarding when I get there.

Many of these areas that I'll describe you can find on the free map of the Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument, which you can pick up at an area visitor center or download HERE.

I hope you enjoy my adventures from the Kanab area!

Wintery Zion and Eagle Crags

Last January (2013) while living in Kanab, Utah, I had a free day to just get out and explore. The options were plentiful, but it had been a while since taking a Zion trip. I decided it would be wise to go check out Zion's low elevation southwestern end, since the recent cold, snowy conditions had probably left many of the Park's trails very slick and icy. 

I drove through the Park's eastern entrance, through the tunnel, and down the windy road that drops down towards the canyon floor. At one of the road's bends, I stopped at a pullout and took an unmarked trail that followed a frozen creek. Up ahead, I noticed some impressive icicles draping off the rock face.

Frozen river with icicles in the background:

The closer I got to the icicles, the more impressed I became.

 I didn't dare get much closer than this:

Although probably pretty common, the icicles were a first time Zion observation for me. I stood around in awe for quite a while before retracing my steps (only about a hundred yards) to my car.

Another look at the creek:

I hopped back in the car, impressed with my unexpected discovery and continued towards the southwest entrance. 


After studying my Zion area map, I decided to head out the Eagle Crags trail, just south of the town of Rockville on BLM land. "Eagle Crags" refers to the obvious rock formations in this area. I did no research and knew very little about the trail, but why not check it out?

The road accessing the trailhead was pretty rough, and probably should only be attempted by high clearance vehicles, preferably with 4-wheel drive. My Xterra didn't have much trouble, but I took it pretty slowly. For further directions to the trailhead, click HERE

When I reached the trailhead, the Crags were looming large to the south.

The trail begins fairly flat before rising towards Eagle Crags and into the Canaan Mountain Wilderness. 

The views along the way were awesome, and offered glimpses to the east towards Zion's seldom visited Parunuweap Canyon (East Fork of the Virgin River.)

Parunuweap is the Canyon directly beyond the pond in this photo, between Johnson Mountain (left) and Shunesburg Mountain (right): 

Another view, panning to the left:

As the trail ascended towards the Eagle Crags, it became progressively snow-covered, until I eventually reached an area where only one other person had been up there since the last storm. 

I followed their boot prints until I was directly beneath the Crags.

I finally reached the area where the prints I had been following stopped, stepped off for a view, and turned around. This was also where the obvious trail ended, but I wasn't quite ready to turn around. 

I continued trudging across the now unbroken snow until I was pretty much bushwhacking through junipers and scrambling across rocks. In the distance I could see some rugged peaks deep in the heart of Canaan Mountain. Apparently there's a way to navigate from Eagle Crags to or from Water Canyon near Colorado City, Arizona. I decided on a stopping point and scouted out the terrain. It seems like that would be a gnarly navigation, but a challenge I'd be open to attempting. 

Here's my photo of the rugged peaks in the distance (sorry for the poor quality, the glare was pretty bad.)

I retraced my steps quickly, as I didn't want to run out of daylight, but I made a point to turn around and get one last glimpse of the Eagle Crags.

While driving back home, I decided to take the "scenic route" across Smithsonian Butte, which runs 9 miles from Grafton to Colorado City. This is a dirt road that was pretty rough in a few areas, but that didn't stop a couple of low clearance sedans from attempting it. One of these cars was at the top of a really muddy and steep stretch of road, and I saw no people in or around the car. I was amazed if they made it up that section (which I was a bit nervous going up with my Xterra in 4-wheel drive). Maybe more likely, they came from Colorado City and stopped when they saw what they were in for before dropping into Grafton. Either way, I'll never know.

It was my first time driving across Smithsonian Butte, and I was happy I went back that way. The sun was beginning to set, and I couldn't help but get out and snap a few pics as I made my way home. It was a great way to end a gorgeous winter day exploring the desert.

West side of Eagle Crags: